Best New Restaurant

It is as if proprietess Carly Groben took the pulse of this city’s restaurant scene, determined its health, prescribed what it needed and delivered it herself. What she delivered — a tagine-full of bright, intense flavors skillfully coaxed from simple Mediterreanean ingredients — proves in the most scrumptious way that “good-for-you” can be really, really good. — D.V. Wagman

Best Tried and True Restaurant

In the six-plus years since Centro opened its doors, the place has become a Des Moines institution, along the lines of the former Guido’s and Johnny and Kaye’s; better yet, the cooking seems to be breaking out of its former predictability and pile-it-on, bulk-it-up rut. Centro’s kitchen was among the first in Des Moines to give La Quercia’s Acorn Edition Pork, Niman Ranch heritage poultry breeds — and even goat — a go. And of course, the ever-present energy in the room uplifts the diner and makes us feel we’re really out on the town — even if we’re only there for a pizza. — W.E. Moranville

Most Head-Turning Restaurant

Finally, there’s a restaurant in the Fort Des Moines Hotel that looks like it might have some staying power. Though the food ranks a solid B (good, but not as precise and finesse-filed as I’d hope for in a French-inspired spot), the buzzing atmosphere and the grand-boulevard-brasserie feel combine for a great time, as do the late-night service on weekends and the shockingly generous “never a corkage fee” policy. — W.E. Moranville

In spite of a personal preference for cozy little neighborhood joints and mom-and-pop management, there is something to say for grand scale, well-capitalized restaurants, especially when they are as cleverly conceived and carefully executed as is this one. From its friendly, familial service to its homey, authentic fare, this place provides a warm welcome that turns my head like no other. — D.V. Wagman